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Uganda: Kibale Tea Plantation and Chimping

We awoke early beneath an indigo sky. Water was boiling on the camp stove, so we filled our pink plastic mugs with Amarula-spiked coffee and cocoa, before making our way over to the squishy chairs alongside the bar. From our cozy perch, in perfect stillness, we watched the sun rise over our steaming mugs, bathing the surrounding hillsides in a soft, pink glow.

Soon little birds flicked and fluttered about around us.  We particularly enjoyed watching one ingenious little sunbird that fed on the insects hidden within the golden thatched roof above our heads. He would hover against the roof and then sharply pecked his beak into the straw to disturb, and then devour, the creepy crawlies that were hiding inside.

Later in the morning we laced our hiking boots for a walk through the tea plantations and surrounding park land. Our guides, James and Ignacious, were both kind and knowledgeable in the process of tea harvesting and the local flora. When the tender leaves are harvested, 2 1/2 leaves are plucked at a time. This amount is referred to as “mbili nanusu.”  Men usually do the harvesting, while women and children weed, maintain and fertilize the plants. They cover the plants in hay or banana leaves to protect them from the harsh sun. During the harvest season, the dry season, the harvesters rotate through the fields and visit each once a week. The back-breaking labor of harvesting tea leaves only pays approximately 70 Ugandan shillings per kg. The seasoned picker can gather upwards of 100 kg of tea leaves each day. Interestingly, most of the tea harvested in Africa is exported to India, and then sold as Indian tea. As expected, most of the team farms in Africa are owned by Indian families.

 

As we walked through the park, James and Ignacious pointed out many interesting plants and shared how some of them were used as medicine by the local people. One tree is dubbed the “Malaria Tree.” Its leaves are boiled to make a tea, and this tea prevents malaria for up to 3 months.

The leaves of the Fire Flame tree, mixed with eucalyptus leaves, as well as a variety of others, can be boiled together to create a tea that cure sore throats.

Shortly after returning from our hike, we boarded the bus and drove deeper into Kibale National Park to go chimping. As we lumbered down the road, our tires kicked up Africa’s infamous rusty dust, as well as flurries of fluttering butterflies- we’ve never seen so many winged beauties in one place! Once broken into smaller hiking groups, we met our guide, Harriet. She first explained that the ants of the forest not only have a terrible stinging bite, but also an affinity for private parts. So, as we were carefully tucking our pant legs into our socks, she also explained that she and the other guides had ideas of where the chimps might be, because of where their food was growing. “If you had mice in your house, you’d know where to find them because you know where your food is kept. Just as you know the house, we know the forest.” With that, she turned sharply in her tall rubber boots and tromped into the forest.

So, off we set, hopeful that our chimping expedition would reward us with close encounters with the chimps, all while avoiding the pincers of those nasty ants. The gently sloping forest trail was well-groomed and the hike was pleasant. Vines dangled down around our heads, and sunlight streamed through the trees, spot-lighting the butterflies that flitted about in a joyful dance.  About 20 minutes past before we heard our first chimp call. Harriet stopped and listened intently. Once we heard the second call she had identified the general direction it was coming from, and we bid the groomed path farewell. Within seconds we were crashing through the dense foliage of the surrounding forest. The chimpanzees were on the ground, but would soon ascend to the tops of the trees to feed, so we had to act quickly if we had any hope of seeing them. Hearts racing, we clambered over fallen trees, dodged sharp thorns, and were slapped in the face by more branches than we cared to have experienced! We spotted several chimpanzees, but they were on the move. They stopped just long enough for us to raise our cameras before turning their rears to us and moving deeper into the forest. Lucky for us, Harriet was both determined and experienced with these creatures, and she redirected us so that we were able to intersect the apes’ path and we were rewarded with some incredible views!

As you can see, we were able to get amazingly close to the chimpazees. While they are still wild animals, they have become habituated to the presence of humans, and so they are quite comfortable with all of us lurking about and taking photos. Of course, our guides were very vigilant and ensured that the visitors did not cause any stress or alarm to the chimps.

itchy bum =)

All too soon, our time with the chimpanzees came to an end, as they climbed- almost effortlessly, it appeared- high into the tree tops. There, they crashed about, sending branches and leaves sailing down to the forest floor, as they hooted, foraged, and socializing amongst themselves.


Best chimping crew ever!